Pura Vida!

Paraiso

La ola grande

Daniel con los muchachos

Daniel y yo en el ATV

LISTAS! (ready)

Las reinas fuego bailarines (The queens fire dancers)

Lorraine y yo en la Carnival en la primera noche

Carnival starts on day 3, however the day’s festivities do not begin until 7 or 8 at night. To burn some time Nelly, Lorraine, Daniel, y yo decided to head down to a nearby beach.  We took a short drive (about 10 min) towards the Pacific coast to this beautiful, secret local beach. Complete solitude. este fue el paraiso (this was paradise).  BONUS: there were waves! Lorraine said the swells were the largest she’s seen them since arriving to Pedasi. Lorraine being from California, jumped on her board and we didn’t see her for 3 hours.  Me I gave surfing a whirl. CASI (almost) caught a few.. the short board proposed a new challenge for me, nonetheless it was fun! Our solitude ended when a few of the locals crashed the spot, but not at any given point was there more then 10 people total at the beach. After Daniel, Nelly, and yo’s quick surf lessons from Seorita Lorraine Harpur we all piled into the car to head for a cold drink and some lunch. Daniel being the only boy with us, insisted we allow him to ride in the back of the pick-up truck with all the other Surfer Muchachos. And so we did?  Good looking out? Ha

Between the beach and carnival, Daniel took me on a 4 wheel ATV ride to see the rest of the farm. I met the pig (name according to Daniel es Bonito), I met the chickens (names according to Daniel es Bonitos), I met the rotwiler they keep tied up, had the privilege of seeing the sheep, and the opportunity to see the lake, fortunately I lucked out and did not encounter the lake’s 2 crocodiles! Daniel showed me sheep bones because I didn’t believe that the crocodiles lived there. HA “OKAY DANIEL back on the 4 wheeler PORFAVOR!”

After a small dinner, we arrive in the el pueblo at 9-10PM. LISTO para la fiesta! (Ready for the Party).  Still unsure of the tradition.. One queen was paraded around town for the first part of the night. A band of Panamanian men with trumpets and drums, followed on a second float.  Each float was swallowed up by the entire town, as everyone tailed creating a train of drunk people two-stepping (or whatever they are calling it) I just follow. After a good 12 loops. The new Queen (La Riena nueva) is presented to the town, fireworks reign down on us, I climb the float tractor to get a closer look and take photos with Lorraine’s Camera. The locals are going crazy, not a single person seems to be dreading their time thus far. The new queen assumes her new position, steps on her float.. and the circling of the town continues.. and keeps going.. and going.. and going. Like the freaking energizer bunny!

We all (Marium, Matrithza, Nelly, Lorraine, y yo) head to the Discoteca to show off what we’ve been practicing! I am unsure what dance i’m even doing: Uno, dos, (switch) uno, dos, (back) un, dos,  Aqui, Aka, (spin). I would say it was a sexier, more Latin version of the Electric Slide! This one I’ve got down pat, THANKS MOM and Darlene for all the years of line dance demos! Next thing you know, I am being spun by a local. One hour later I have to sit down, I am dizzy. Lorraine is tired too. We attempt to leave, but Nelly and her sister are not ready.. It’s 3:30AM. Lorraine and I head to the car to wait and nap. It’s 5AM we finally go home, to only find minimal sleeping space, and many more people then before we left. I would say there were about at least 6 extra air mattresses!! IEIE.. where did they come from? Yo estoy burracha, my feet hurt, I find a spot, Good Night!

la finca de Pedasi (Not the Vera Farm though)

Rooms with walls

Finca de casa de Vera

Pedasi (Busiest street)

View del casa de Tia

Vacas flacas (Skinny cows)

Amigo de Nelly

I was warned about the early mornings on the farm, I didn’t think much of it. “No it’s okay I can sleep through anything.” These are my words prior to my first morning on the farm! Correction: I can sleep through anything except for mornings en la finca de Vera. Rising around 7-8AM, no se? We (Nelly, Lorraine, y Yo) packed into the car to head to el pueblo de Pedasi. The farm is about 3Km from the town.  Now that the sun is out I start to get a feel for my surroundings. “So Lorraine, this is where you live?” Muy bien para ella (Very good for her). It’s not the lifestyle I see for half or almost any of my friends, but what an experience. Impressive Lorraine.

To give you an idea. Lorraine, Nelly, Miriam, y Marithza Ariel’s girlfriend (and of course me for Carnival week), share the middle bedroom. There are three bedrooms set up in railroad cart-style. Meaning in order to get to the next room you are entering one or two of the other bedrooms. The other two rooms are usually occupied by the brothers (Ariel y Daniel) and the parents. These are the only rooms in the house with WALLS, well except the two bathrooms. Yes i said walls! Every other room: the kitchen, tv room, laundry room, hang out room, maid’s room are all OUTSIDE! Yes, outside. Not to worry there ARE roofs! IEIE, and the bugs in your rice, I like to call it EXTRA protien! Lorraine has been getting a lot of that I’m sure!

Okay, back to el pueblo! We head there to have a look around. It is your typical quite day in Pedasi, aside from the setting up for Carnival. I take some photos of what seems to me a 3 block town, very peaceful, quaint, and clean! We stop at Tia’s.  Her house and her family was one of the first three families to settle in the town!  Right in the center of town, she says she has never been able to sleep during el semana de Carnival! Now I am excited!

Last minute, Nelly informs us that we must take Tia back to Chitre for another Doctor’s appointment. We pile in only 4 of us this time. On the way we are halted in the middle of the two lane country road, as a heard of what look like Anorexic cows pass us by.  I wanted to call out to the farmer accompanying them “Is there no food for the cows? Will someone please feed these cows.” Ha the cows proceed past us and we are cleared to continue.  Arriving at the doctors offices we (Lorraine y yo) receive many looks, being we are the only GRINGAS to be found at the medical center. Everything is okay, and Tia treats us to Chinese food. ha, delicious!

Back to Las tablas we make a stop for Tia. As she is in her final appointment, we all have a look around.  Across the street you will not believe this.. an inaguracion para el super (Literally meaning an inauguration or opening for a supermarket). The band the crowds, the dancing and the beers, just another excuse for Panamanians to celebrate! IEIE. We run into el Amigo de Nelly, he was actually a guitarist for the Supermarket band. The final stop before we head back to Pedasi was a small apparel store. Tia insists on buying us an outfit for the carnival, because some of the events run risk of ruining your nicer clothes. In total tia spent 6 USD for 3 outfits. The prices here make Walmart even look expensive! SHEESH.

We return to la finca. What I thought was going to be a calm night turned out to be a small intervention to make me a better dancer for the carnival. Lorraine already having practiced several times in town, made the local and typical dances look easy. If this white girl can dance, i can for sure too? Okay, warm up with ZUMBA to get my hips loose (I now regret not attending these types of classes at George Mason with my roommates). If any of the dances were like ZUMBA I was DONE FOR IT!  Not to worry like i said it was an intervention, so by hour 3, though my eyes were hardly open and I was running off of a caffeine high, I managed to learn several dances and the laughs of the family members were reduced significantly.

Carnival begins the following night! Let’s hope all this practice paid off!

Let my tale begin. So there I was 7AM, my pack was ready. Of course only after a long night out with Eduardo and his friend. Considering that Eduardo was taking me to the International  airport I figured at the very least I owed him thus much.  In retrospect: I think my consumption of drinks minimized my packing skills by 10 fold. For what its worth though, most of the necessitates made the trek with me to Panama.

View flying into David

Eduardo and I make our way to the airport in a round about indirect, strange way. I say this because it was not the shortest route, but rather took us through town. Apparently this chaos is related to a law implemented to eliminate some oil usage based upon license numbers. Eduardo sends me away, so my lengthy descent south to Panama starts here. From San Jose I flew to David, Panama. Customs 2 collapsible tables, was a breeze to get through. It was at the airport my Spanish lessons really began. After stammering out the following:  “Donde esta la estacion de autobuses? Yo neccesitio a ir a Santiago,” I was directed to a taxi. Santiago was my next stop. I grabbed a bus in David and made my way. After arriving in Santiago I some how managed to understand when the lady told me that I must cross the bride over the street to catch the bus to Chitre, my next peg on the map.

During this bus ride, my courage to talk to the locals increased. I finally convinced my new amigo, Roger from the Chitre bus, to allow me to borrow his cell phone so I can call my friend Lorraine, who I was planning on meeting in Las Tablas.   Lorraine currently lives with a Panamanian family on their farm in Pedasi a small pueblo (village/town) on the Pacific Coast.

“Hola Nelly? Es Maggie Miller, amiga de Lorraine.” Nelly: “MAGGGGGGGGGGIE! WE WERE WORRIED. YOU DIDNT CALL.” Haha in my defense at this point i still didn’t know how to use the pay phones and I was transferring buses all day, Thank god, for Roger.  Nelly told me to stay where I was they were actually in Chitre and would pick me up! Eight family members greet me at the bus stop! In Panama, family goes everywhere and does everything together! Aaa a reunion with familiarity! I thought the weekend would lend me some time to use English and chill with Lorraine. No I was in for a treat. My head began to swell and pound. Outside of Lorraine, only Nelly speaks some English.  This I call my “Spanish headache” (the type of headache you get when you are trying to translate, remember, and comprehend to much Spanish in one day).

My weekend sleeping quarters

To my surprise it was Tia’s (the aunt) birthday! We stopped at one of their favorite restaurants before returning to the Farm (1.5 hour drive from Chitre). Arriving at 1AM to la finca, there was not much light to get a feel for where I was at. Didn’t matter, I was tired and I made it. I am showed to my room and I slip in to a very content and pleasing state of sleep. What a long day!

Air view - Costa de oeste de Panama

Sheesh. What a weekend, where to begin? I left for Pedasi, Panama en Mirecoles al semana pasado (last Wednesday). Not willingly, but feeling obligated to return to work I returned the following Monday! I have used the last several days to attempt to wrap my head around exactly what I had just witnessed, what happened and the experience in total.  I think it will be easiest to read it in doses. The following posts will break down my time spent in panama, the carnival, some of the cultural realizations of the Panamanians.  Yet, these posts will only capture a fraction of the CRAZY i was exposed to throughout Carnival 2009 and my solo trip down to Panama! ENJOY! Pura Vida.

Determined

Escalada

Antonio

Antonio y Andres

Vamos arriba

La cascada

Cansado y sudoroso

Yo fui escalar hoy, con mis amigos Antonio y Andres. (I went climbing today with my friends Antonio and Andres).  What a rush. Per usual, the adrenaline junkie I am I could not wait to rock climb today! In good hands, Antonio and Andres both climbing for more than 8 years, I had no fear. Though I am a beginner and have not climbed for the past 3 months, I was excited to get back on that horse. And I did just that, though thrown off many times, I got back on again and again and again.

Heading out around 8 this morning, Antonio, Andres and I packed our gear (well their gear) and headed for the Cañón del río. Ranging from 30 ft to 70 ft climbs, I knew I was in for a treat! Determination sweeping through, I undermined the fact my borrowed climbing shoes were two sizes to big, harnessed up and gave it a go. Making it to the top of a 35ft wall, I felt accomplished for a moment. Fighting the rock, I exhausted myself and was unable to defeat the two 50 ft climbs.  Swinging from hold to hold with ease like spiderman, Antonio set up most of the routes and acted as my instructor. It was very appreciated.

The area we went climbing was a river canon. The river (during dry season) was small, with a small la casada (Waterfall) and a swimming hole. Andres recommended I resist jumping in, unfortunately, the area and water was not well maintained.  After the exhilarating climbs, I thought the hard part was over. WRONG! We are in a canon, we repelled down the 50 ft wall to get there and the only way to leave is to climb back up or use the equipment as a pulley system. haha SHEEEEEESH I didn’t think I signed up for boot camp. Casi (almost) there, the last 8 ft seemed almost impossible. – Not to worry Spiderman to the rescue, yanked my ass straight out of that Canon. Whew.

Bruised and battered, I hardly can type this. My muscles are tired from the climb, but I am craving more… What a day.

Montañas

Rio Tarcoles

Muchos Cocodrilos

Dos cocodrilos sun bathing

Once again, I accompanied Eduardo on one of his shuttle drop-offs. This time is was to drop clients at a hotel in Quepos , which is near la playa Manuel Antonio. Again, the actual drive keeps you on the edge of your seat, however as my time passes here in Costa Rica, I gain trust for the roads and drivers’ ability to maneuver through these twists and turns.  Also, according to Eduardo he’s only been in one accident in his entire life. (More then I can say). Oh, and yet again the clients were from D.C. (small world). Throughout the scenic, 3 hour ride there was much small talk, and they agreed to take me out for Indian food in Dupont Circle (section of D.C.) upon my return. Uh huh, I WILL be holding them to that, Thank you.

Near Jaco

The drive to Quepos served as yet another geography, history/trivia, and Spanish Class for me.  Geography: We crossed el Rio Tarcoles, which is near Carara National Park. Eduardo insisted for us all to walk across the 500 meter bridge. No, not because it was it was dangerous, but because the river was known for it’s Crocodiles and Makaws.  No Makaws were spotted, but I counted 20 crocodiles at the very least. Basking in the sun, covered in mud there was very little motion; maybe a minor yawn, these reptiles looked harmless. Eduardo tried to convince the clients that I was his gift to his crocodile friends. HA. Harmless looking maybe, razor sharp teeth and some at least 12 ft in size, I will pass. History/Trivia: Palm oil is a major export crop here and has been for many many years, they have PALM TREE PLANTIONS, What those exist? Trees after trees, endless..( Ashley your mama would have died upon the site of all them). Spanish: well there is only so much Eduardo can say in English, so it always turns into a Spanish class more or less.

From the shuttle

Plantaciones de árboles de palma

Dang! We missed the sunset. The sun started to dip and we were still passing through Jaco (A beach on the way).  I did my best to snap a few shots, most of my pictures from this trip were from the shuttle, but I managed to get a few descent ones. Finally, made it to Quepos, a beautiful quaint beachy- tourist town. Once there: we dropped the clients at their hotel, had or comida y cafe break, and turned around for a night drive home consisting of broken Spanlish conversations and old Mariah Carey and Madonna jams. Haha Pura Vida!

José y yo en nuestra Tico Camisetas

“Vamos… Vamos los Ticos..Que esta noche..Tenemos que ganar!” This is one of the many chants I partook in during el primer partido de futbol  (the first soccer game) of ten games in the World Cup Qualifiers. Literally meaning, Let’s go, Let’s go Ticos, tonight, we must win! Wow, what a game. I have never been to anything quite like the juego de Sales! Sales is the name of the Costa Rican team,”Sales Campeon Sales, Sales Campeon” Champions Sales! The game of soccer or futbol for Ticos is LIFE! The sold out stadium high up on the mountain, holding around 25,000 people, roared with mucho energia (much energy).

Arriving with Jose to the game two hours early, to assure our seats in the South “bleacher” section of the stadium and unknown to me that it was the Ticos Locos Section (Crazy Tico), I was in for quite the treat! (You can see my section in the Youtube clip posted) As Hondorus entered the stadium from beneath our section, the fans and I stamped our feet until fatigued, whistles, and boos, I was sure the structure they call our seats was bound to collapse.

And now the Sales! The drums start, the crowd rises, the chants get louder. The first half although from a t.v. perspective would seem boring and uneventful, seemed like one of the best soccer games I have ever watched. Up. Down. Up, we never remained seated. Time ticked on, “Casi. Casi” (Almost) never a dull moment. Not to mention the fans! By the U.S. standards this is not an event you would want your kids to attend, unless you wanted to “Ear-muff” them for 85% of the game. Every chant out side of the chants mentioned previously, was a slur of profanity in the Spanish language! If one wants to learn the slang and “Not so good” Espanoel, then a soccer game is the place to do it.

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOL! The first goal came with the first 5 minutes or so of the second half. The fans go LOCO! Kissing, hugging, high-fives and I’m thinking I don’t even know you, but I hug back anyways! ieie. What a feeling. Good vibrations. GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL! The second goal is scored! The underdog Sales are on their way to Victory! The excitement proceeds up until the very end.

Amazed by the sea of red performing the wave, I cannot explain into words the emotions displayed. Circling again and again, section by section throughout the stadium, the unity of the team, the fans, the country waves on! Lo que una noche! (what a night). Costa Rica two. And Hondorus zero. Sales Campeon!

Playa Giuones

What a weekend! Where to begin.. Let’s see here, how about a quick note in espanoel. Yo fue a la playa Guiones con Nela y amigas de ella. ( Think I said: I went to Guiones Beach with Nela and her friends.) Well, regardless if my sentence was correct, that is exactly what I did this past weekend.

Stephanie y yo: Car Ride

La playa casa de Soli

Sure enough, we leave on Friday after work around.. Cinco y media (5:30 PM) to make the 5 hour drive up to Guanacaste, Costa Rica which is the province you can find Guiones . Ieie .. I thought, eh shouldn’t be bad..I will sleep or enjoy the ride. WRONG! Am I in D.C. ? Is this traffic really at a standstill? 1 hour later the traffic clears, I thought I will rest my head, my eyes, and nap. Nap was the last thing I could or wanted to do. The rough terrain of the “highways” and the speed Fabian (Nela’s Novio or Boyfriend) chooses, gave me no hope for a potential nap!  So I make small talk with Stephanie in the back seat as she tries to teach me “Vos,” yet another spanish form (used more between friends and relaxed talking) I am learning Ustedes…! My thought: this will be an interesting weekend.

La playa, Hammocks, y yo

Neck almost intact, we arrive! Pura Vida! We head to bed, there was not much light to look around. We stayed at Nela’s friend Soli’s house. First impression, considering we had to drive onto la playa to enter this beachfront property, was nothing but a jaw drop and a big breathe of the fresh air of the Pacific. Paradise! Stephanie and I wake early, apparently Howler Monkeys do not sleep in. The beauty of the place chokes me with excitement. Rustic, simple, but still such a “gem” if you will.  Miles of ocean before me, palm trees, and HAMMOCKS! Me gusta hammocks!

Howler Monkey

Al atardecer (Sunset)

Breakfast in the open/outdoor kitchen and then off for a beach run, the morning could not have went better. Books, chats, sunbathing, and a swim prior to lunch kept me more then entertained. I felt welcomed by Nela and her friends, though at times Yo estoy timido (I was shy) to practico (practice) my Spanish, they assured me I was more then welcome to use my native language. I did my best not to and often found it humbling to just listen for once! HAHA Hear that? Yes, I too know when to just listen.. sometimes.

Stephanie and I climbed the tree in the backyard to shake down the mangos for Ensalada de mangos, which is a sour, bitter, salty salad of green mangos. I did most of the climbing, while Steph waits for me on the ground. Laughing, sure enough I spot no mangos where I have climbed to and who awaits me three braches higher? Yes, our friend from the morning, Mr. Howler Monkey. Que Mierde! (Shit!) Capturing the moment, Stephanie takes a few photos.

Photo Shoot

Ah, yes now for my favorite part of the weekend. The sunset! I can not explain the red and orange hues of this sunset, it’s colors were captivating me. Stunned and emotional by this simple science, I automatically wish for my family and friends to be there with me. (okay okay lame, but true!) I wished for someone close to me to share it with. At best I captured some photos to share and then continued to participate in a sunset photo shoot with mi amigos nuevos (Fabain, Nela, Caro, y Steph). Great ending. Beautiful day.

Los pescadores y las aves (Fishermen and Birds)

Again. El domingo por la mañana me fui corriendo en la playa. (On Sunday morning I went running on the beach). Soli and Mitchel (Soli’s Novio) took me to see lunch, fresh Red Snapper from the Pacific. I have a video of the crazed savage birds and local fisher men dueling a bit for ownership of the prize.  Before lunch, we headed north on the beach to catch los olas (waves), and yet again I try my athleticism at surfing. Riding mostly white water I did okay, caught about seven waves mas o menos (more or less). What a rush.

Pura Vida!

I think a few more goes and I could really dig this lifestyle. Live in a rustic cabana, beachfront with nothing more then aspirations and dreams for happy days! En todos se trata de un fin de semana muy muy divertido! (In all it was a very, very fun weekend) Pura Vida!

Yesterday, my fingers we crossed all day and my prayers said the previous night, yet it was not enough to clear the skies for my first visit to Volcano Arenal. Though, a bit disappointed I did not see this active volcano spew any lava or witness the red glow of its liquid hot MAG-MA, I did however amongst the dark sky receive the opportunity to see a puff of black smoke just above the clouds and fog.

Let remind you this was a “work” day for me, not a typical workday, but my very first work “field trip,” so yes a workday.  On this day I had the privilege of accompanying the company driver, Eduardo and the Solimar Travel clients from the San Jose Airport to La Fortuna (Just past the Volcano).  The drive, an adventure all in itself allowed me to view the real Costa Rica, while also practicing my Spanish with Eduardo. (Quick tangent here: The clients were from Rockville, MD, I had to laugh, that’s 30-40 minutes from me in D.C. – ieie small world)

Arco iris

Back to the trip to La Fortuna. Passing through the vast varieties of plantations including coffee, pineapple and sugarcane (to name a few), Eduardo always had an interesting comment or statistic to present to all of us. “Costa Rican coffee is number one in the world”, these plants are one of are greatest exports, etc. The knowledge of Costa Rica even if skewed or tweaked was interesting and ever flowing.

Sugarcane

As the ride continued on the Panamerican Highway.. I saw my first arco iris, or rainbow painted across the sky behind the sugar cane fields. (Eduardo says.. you can almost bet you will see a rainbow everyday in Costa Rica). Now heading through the province of Alajuela, the curves of the highway become nerve tensing, hair pin turns, leaving everyone except for Eduardo on the edge of

Puente (Bridge) temporario

their seat. This part of the high way makes its way up and down through the rolling terrain of the mountains, up past small little towns, which sometimes just 25 Km can take up to a 1 hour drive. Safely maneuvering around some of the land slide damage and missing chunks of ashfault, we make it to the broken bridge. Not to worry Eduardo explains a temporary one was installed, in Costa Rica temporary can mean up to 10 years. haha.

La cascada

As we crossed the bridge, we really had the feel for the rainforest, off in the distance one could spot at least 3 to 4 Las Casadas (waterfalls), not to mention it was now really beginning to rain.. a whole lot  of rain! This should make the remainder of the ride fairly “fun”.. I am almost positive we are not on the Panamerican Highway anymore, but again I am unsure here in Costa Rica road signs and names are limited, most directions use eye-catching or large points of reference to give directions. For example, “Turn left after the large futbol field.” Here in Costa Rica there could be 6 large Futbol fields!! ieieie.

Nonetheless, we made it to La Fortuna. With the Volcano Arenal on the left it was just about dark.. the clouds covered the top, but I was still very impressed. An active  volcano. Wow. We dropped the clients off at the Lost Iguana Lodge, ate at a local restaurant (I had Casado Vegetarian- or the veggie version of Comida Typical – the typical Tico dish), and turned around to make the same trip back through the mountains. In the dark this time! Pura Vida!

Si, Si.. I even had the opportunity to watch the super bowl, while here in Costa Rica.

Yeah.. so you know how I mentioned Escazu has almost every United States fast food chain restaurant.. well did I mention the local hooters as well? Oh yes, believe it.. I spent my super bowl Sunday at the local hooters with all the other local Ticos rooting on the macho football men throw the pig skin and tackling one another.  Considering football watching has never been one of my favorite pastimes, I was just heading out to grab some beers con mi amigos Jose y Alverto and enjoy the juego (game) atmosphere. I will say what a game though. Every tico in the bar was on the edge of their seat for this one, it seemed that the crowd was almost evenly split.  I will admit by geographic default (erie) I chose to root for the steelers.  Becoming quite intense, Jose and i even placed steep bets of 300 colones a piece. (about 50 cents).  HAHA. Well Jose, that’s right.. que madre for you!

Que madre (literally meaning “What Mother”) is the tico saying for “bummer” a term i tend to use  often. It is said in the same “wah. wah”, low, my wine spilled on my white dress, Bummer tone… Que Madre.  Well I guess the white dress isn’t a perfect que madre example, I’m sure there is enough of you out there would be a little more then just “bummed” but to me .. That’s que madre for sure.

Back to the game though..I was rather impressed. In my eyes the night was successful. I enjoyed a few local beers with some of the office friends, my team pick for the game made an outstanding last minute play, I won 300 colones.. Not bad hooters. not bad.

Pura Vida!